Brake Pads

The Breakdown on Performance Brakes

admin — Tue, 10 Aug 2010 05:35:05 +0000

Truth be told, factory brakes are only getting flimsier. Due to the underpowered nature of these systems, today’s trucks and SUVs can require brake service in less than 20,000 miles. One reporter was actually informed by the dealership that the squeaky stops on her sub-20K SUV were the result of an aggressive brake system.

The automotive aftermarket is brimming with performance brake systems and components designed for nearly every vehicle on the road. From new ceramic brake pads and slotted brake rotors to oversized discs and big brake kits, there are a slew of brake manufacturers ready to beef up your pedal prowess.

This results in safer, more controllable braking in your daily driving adventures, and high-performance stopping when engaged in spirited motoring. Basically, the improved pedal feel of powerful brakes isn’t reserved for guys who are hanging it out at the track on weekends.

Now, if you go with oversized discs and multi-piston calipers, the modifications get a bit more complex. Quality brake rotors are made of heavy-duty cast iron, but that’s just the beginning. Internal venting keeps ‘em cooler under heavy use, while drilled or slotted brake rotors deliver a consistent performance bite. Not only do you get better performance and longer brake life, a set of cross-drilled and vented rotors adds a racy style to your ride, especially if you’ve got a set of open-style wheels.

So, when you’re ready to replace those factory binders, which is normally sooner than you think, put the brakes on the factory trash and set your ride up right with a high-performance pad, caliper and rotor system available for your particular vehicle.

The Legend of Brake Pads – The Stopping Power You Need

admin — Tue, 10 Aug 2010 05:32:02 +0000

John Wooden was a legend. Richard Pryor was a legend. And Donald Trump’s hair is legendary.

Of all the parts on your vehicle, brake pads can definitely be considered a legendary development in the history of auto manufacturing.

Modern vehicles make use of a two-part brake system that is made up of a disc or rotor and the brake caliper assemblies – more commonly known as “disc brakes.” The caliper assemblies contain hydraulic pistons which push against the back of the pads, clamping them together around the spinning rotor. It’s actually the increase in friction between the rotor and the pads that creates kinetic energy, slowing your vehicle down.

As the word friction may imply, your brakes are constantly in a state of wear. Of all the pads currently on the market, ceramic brake pads make the ideal replacement. Forged from copper, ceramic brake pads withstand wear better than their steel counterparts through a more effective heat transfer. In addition, they cool faster, last longer and are virtually silent, generating sound outside the range of human hearing. Performance-grade brake pads, like Chevy Malibu brake pads, surpass their stock counterparts in durability by 20 – 40 percent. Brake kits are engineered to your unique make, model and year, delivering increased friction while conforming to the manufacturer’s standards for noise, vibration, durability and fit.

To ensure the longest life for your brake pads, another option would be to pair them with performance-grade brake calipers. Used in conjunction, these components deliver up to 30 percent more braking power than stock parts. Constructed of light-weight, aerospace-grade, billet aluminum and stainless steel pistons, a high-end brake caliper resists corrosion and also fights off high temperatures.

Automobile Repair – Replace Disk Brake Pads

admin — Tue, 10 Aug 2010 05:29:53 +0000

I am working on the rear axle of a Chevrolet Express 1500 All Wheel Drive Van. I have 100,000 miles on the original pads. A high pitched sound was heard (which brakes are designed make when pads are worn out) so it was definitely time to examine things. Replacing damaged rotors is very expensive so don’t procrastinate when you hear that pitched squealing sound coming from your vehicle when you put the brakes on. 1st off, you’ll need a level place to park your vehicle to work on it. Obtain a quality jack and place it under the frame of the vehicle. Place some of the vehicle’s weight on the jack, but not all. Get yourself a quality wheel lug wrench or use the one that came with your vehicle. With the wheels still on the ground and holding some of the vehicle’s weight, loosen each lug nut on the wheel or wheels that you want to change the pads on.

-After loosening all lugs, continue jacking the vehicle high enough to allow the tires not to touch the ground.

-Remove each lug and place them together in a nearby safe place.

-Remove the tire and wheel from the axle.

Take pictures if you like. (For this article, we will stay on topic and talk only about brake pads).

This item rotates and the pads rub against this piece to stop your vehicle when you apply the brakes. We need to remove the brake caliper (the piece holding the pads) from the rotor assembly.

Look behind the rotor assembly and you should see two bolts that must be removed to remove the caliper. Remove both bolts. Do NOT allow the caliper to hang from the rubber hose. Examine the underside of the caliper and remove both clips holding the brake pads. Pay special attention to the way the pads are installed as there may be a front versus back to these pads and of course your new ones.

Examine your new pads and compare them to the new ones you bought. Each wheel has two pads that must be replaced.

At this time you will probably experience that you cannot place the caliper back on the rotor. The new pads make it seem too thick to fit over the rotor.
Open your hood, find the brake reservoir and carefully open it. Place a CLEAN towel or rag over the top of the reservoir. Return to the wheel being worked on.

Get yourself a large “C” clamp and attach it to the caliper forcing the pad to push the piston back into the housing. It will push back in and allow the new brake pad to move back so that now you can attach the caliper back onto the rotor.

Tighten bolts as much as possible. Be sure never to get any oil or grease on the rotors or the pads as this will disturb the braking ability of your vehicle.

Go back to the hood and put the lid back on your brake fluid reservoir. Install the wheel and hand tighten all lugs. Allow the vehicle to drop partially adding some weight to the wheels and then tighten all lugs evenly with lug wrench.

Remove jack. Drive car slowly and test the operation of your braking system before going on a busy road.

Brake Pads For Passenger Cars and Trucks

admin — Tue, 10 Aug 2010 05:28:54 +0000

Next to going, stopping is the most important thing about driving. Brakes are what make that happen. Brake pads are what stop your car or truck and have to be maintained on a regular basis. A brake job is fairly uncomplicated procedure and something that most anyone can do with basic tools. At the same time most shops will change pads and check everything about your brakes for around $60 bucks. Which ever route you go, don’t fudge on brake maintenance. Ah! But how do you know when it’s time for brake maintenance if you’re not having any problems? The pad manufacturers have come up with a cool way to let you know by installing “squealers” on every set of brake pads. This is a soft metal wear indicator that rubs against the brake rotor when your pads are getting thin to alert you that it’s time for brake maintenance. So when you apply the brakes and you hear a squealing sound it’s time to make an appointment with your favorite shop or put a brake job on your list of things to do. Preferably near the top. Other signs that your brakes need attention are pulling to one side or the other when stopping, grabbing or vibrating when stopping, and the brake pedal being softer than normal to depress. A grinding sound means that new pads are overdue and damage is being caused to the rotor.

Knowing that you need brake pads is the first step, deciding what type to install is second. But what are pads? Steel baking plates with friction causing material bonded to the surface and facing the brake rotor. When you apply the brakes, these pads are pushed to the drum or rotor and become heated converting the kinetic energy of the vehicle to thermal energy through friction. This causes the pad to transfer small amounts of friction material to the drum or rotor. The brake rotor and disk will stick to each other and provide stopping power.

There are four main types of brake pads; semi-metallic, non-asbestos organic, low-metallic NAO, and ceramic.

Semi-Metallic Semi-metallic brake pads are made from a mix of 30 to 65 percent metal and usually include chopped steel wool, iron powder, and copper or graphite mixed with fillers. The components are bonded together with friction modifiers. This type of pad is very durable and has excellent heat transfer abilities. The downside of this type is that they wear your rotors down quickly, are a bit noisier than others and don’t always work well in colder temperatures.

Non- Asbestos Organic This type of brake pad is made from glass, rubber, carbon and Kevlar fibers bound together with fillers and high-temperature resins, These pads are softer and quieter but typically wear faster and create more brake dust for you to clean off your rims.

Low-Metallic NAO These pads are made from an organic formula mixed with 10 to 30 percent of copper or steel to get good heat transfer and provide better breaking. Although you get better breaking, because of the metal that is added, you get more break dust and they tend to be slightly noisier.

Ceramic These pads are composed of ceramic fibers, nonferrous filler materials, bonding agents and sometimes small amounts of metal. They are lighter in color, therefore cleaner. They are quieter but, also more expensive. This type of pad offers excellent braking with they least wear to the rotors of all types.

Which of the four is the best? It depends on your individual circumstances. Type of car, driving habits, climate, and a host of other things. No one type of brake pad is better until you factor in all these elements. Most manufacturers offer a range of pads for each application, but consumers shouldn’t be fooled into believing it’s always a good better best choice. You won’t necessarily be safer with the most expensive replacement pad. The standard pad, should meet the demands of normal driving. If you tow heavy loads, live in a mountainous area, or carry lots of passengers you should consider upgraded or heavy duty pads. You may sacrifice a little noise and smoothness. Sound like trial and error? It is. You have to try different pads until you find the type you prefer.

Things You Need to Know About Auto Racing Brake Pads

admin — Tue, 10 Aug 2010 05:28:22 +0000

Here are ten things you should know about auto racing brake pads.

1. There is a difference between street, autocross and racing brake pads

The biggest difference is the operating temperature and the overall coefficient of friction, according to Todd Miller, Product Manager for Hawk Brake Pads. Autocross pads are high-performance pads that will stop better than a street pad. There are many different types of auto race pads. These are specific racing pads designed for the car and type of racing (sprint, endurance, etc).

2. There is no one “all around” racing brake pad

Every pad has trade-offs. The type of pad best suited to your needs depends upon the type of racing that you do.

3. Brake pad size has a limited effect on stopping power

Racing pads required heat to work best. Andreas Boehm of Pagid Brakes points out that the size of the pad is one element of how much heat it can handle. Generally, the higher the temperature helps the car stop better. Miller also points out that the rotor, pad and caliper all play a role in the overall brake system.

4. Auto racing brake pads need to be heated up to work best

Racing pads require heat because of the chemical makeup of the friction formulation. Without heating up, a racing pad will harm the rotor and will wear more quickly.

6. Lots of factors cause racing pads to squeal

Noise, vibration and harshness (NVH) are engineered to different levels by different manufactures of brake pads. The hardness of racing brake pads, the axle, calipers and rotors all impact the degree of squeal. You’ll also find that material composition, physical pad design, level of coefficient friction produced and transfer film quality influence squeal.

7. Brake pads can get too hot

Getting the pad too hot can cause some ingredients in the pad to evaporate out of the material. Slotted rotors don’t really help and rotor weight impacts the heat of the pad.

8. You can tell if your brake pad is too aggressive

Excessive heat can be caused by using the wrong racing brake pad. You have an aggressive pad if you need little pedal pressure.

9. Braking harder for shorter periods of time will reduce overall heating of the brake system

There is less brake wear and lower temperatures with hard, short stopping. All pads have a maximum operating temperature. Make sure your stopping practices keep pad temperature within manufacturer specifications.

10. Look for continued developments with racing brake pads

Performance brake pads are going very much in the direction of ceramic, rotors too. Ceramic handles more heat, creates less brake dust and is better on the environment. Miller points out the buzz surrounding carbon and carbon sic (Siliconized carbon) brakes.